ATTENTION!

Now that I have your attention, I had better make it worth your while!

You want your dog to pay attention to you? You had better make it worth his while as well.

I often see dogs check in and look at their owners and there is no one looking back. Desirable "good" dog behaviour gone unnoticed. After a while the dog will check in with their owners less and less often and look for opportunities elsewhere instead. No doubt, undesirable "bad" dog opportunities...

Missed opportunities for owners!

No long training sessions or commands needed. Just watch out of the corner of your eye while you are going about your daily activities. When your dog glances at you, quickly catch that wonderful desirable behaviour in the act! Promptly mark it with a "yeah" or a "yes" and then immediately follow it with some type of reinforcement (treat, toy, game, chance to follow you, life reward, etc.) Keep the element of surprise in your reinforcements. Quickly root for the leftover ham, toss the empty water bottle for him to fetch, tickle him and have a wrestle ... all the while giggling happily and being merry.

If a behaviour is reinforced it is more likely to be repeated. If looking at you is worthwhile to your dog he will not go looking for his own adventures.

Did you read to the end of this blog post? Guess I made it worth your while. Drop me a note so that all this blogging is worth my while too :0)



Our workshop teaching you beginning attention exercises and progressions:
http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/step-one.html

Marin Humane Society has a couple of great articles on training attention. You have to sign in but the library of excellent articles is worth it!
http://www.marinhumanesociety.org/behavior/handouts.asp

Dog Scouts of America also has a good article.
http://dogscouts.org/Indirect_Access.html

Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious!!!

If you offered me a dollar to put a finger on the tip of my nose, stand on one leg and jump up and down, I would probably do it! ... and if you asked me to do it all while simultaneously singing supercalifragilisticexpialidocious -- I would probably do that too!

Another person may not be so willing. If they refuse to do it are they stubborn?

Would they perhaps do it for $100?
Would they do it in a different environment where they may be more comfortable such as at home in their livingroom?
Would they do it if they were in a different emotional state such as after a few drinks, or together with friends, or in costume on a stage ...?
Or maybe they can't do it no matter the reward if they have physical limitations or pain.

Different individuals have different motivations and can be reinforced by different things....

Dogs have different motivations just like humans. Why are dogs labeled as stubborn and people aren't?

So next time you call your dog stubborn think again...
And then learn about behaviour, training and motivating... upcoming posts on training progression, distractions, and Nothing In Life Is Free type programs coming soon!

Here is a good article on this and other dog training myths. Enjoy your new enlightenment!

http://www.apdt.com/petowners/choose/myths.aspx

Brush and Floss Daily!

Well, okay maybe not the flossing part ... but it is a good idea to brush your dog daily to get him used to holding still, being brushed, examined and handled as a part of a daily routine. This is also good practice in the likelihood of your dog needing medical attention, bandaging or other treatments. If your dog is used to being handled then in an emergency situation there is not the added stress of being restrained and possible prolonged recovery.

You can even teach your dog to enjoy wearing a muzzle or a "cone" and if the need arises at some point in his life then there is no added element of stress.




or conditioning to anything for that matter! This is a great video ... watch for the dog's "Yipee response" at each step of the process.



In our STEP ONE Training Workshop we teach you the beginning steps of targeting, body handling, and how to add value so that your dog eagerly anticipates these times instead of merely tolerating, or worse, struggling and increasing their fears.

http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/step-one.html

DIG THIS!

I love nothing more than to watch dogs doing doggie things! Uninhibited sheer joy in divine canine activities!

My own dogs love to dig and I encourage them to do so ... in appropriate places mind you. Dogs need outlets to partake in natural instinctual behaviours if we want them to be well balanced companions. They don't all have to dig but they do need to have some type of seeking activity. Other games which provide outlet for natural drives are Tug-a-War, hide and seek, find it and fetch games. (Yes, it's okay to play Tug-a-War with your dog ... check back soon for a post on that!)

Children get sandboxes to play in. Dogs can have designated digging pits! If they have a special spot where they can dig and occasionally find a special treasure (that you secretly buried there), then they will be much more likely to dig in their special spot more often ... rather than under your prized peonies where the picking isn't so good.



See our Training Workshop "Fun and Games" and get your dog started on tricks and games that simulate natural outlets for your dogs' energies!
http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/play-and-games.html

For more information on digging see:
http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/digging.html

From Zen to Leave It

Warning: Subject matter may not be suitable for all family members and viewer discretion is advised ... dead squirrel :0(

I don't want to have to shout "Leave it" in threatening tones everytime my dog discovers an object of desire to eat or roll in ... I prefer my dog to have a "default" leave it behaviour.
Think children running around with hot dogs in their hands ... isn't it a given that the dog should default to leaving them alone and not having to be told?!
These exercises are some of the beginning steps:



Our workshop teaching you Zen exercises and their progressions are:
http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/step-one.html

Long Term Confinement Area

Setting up a suitable "Long Term Confinement Area" is a way of keeping Wuffie safe from harm, to aid in housetraining, prevent destructive behaviours, and prevent many other behaviours that puppy (or adolescent) might inadvertently learn if left to his/her own devices ... ie: digging, chewing, barking out the window, chasing the cat, counter-surfing, etc.

It is typically set up in an area of the home that Wuffie regularly spends time and is comfortable in. A fold out exercise pen is securely attached to the crate. At one end of the area is the crate and perhaps a second soft resting area, inside are safe chew toys such as a stuffed Kong, a water dish and possibly a different type of substrate (such as newspaper) in case Wuffie needs to relieve himself (but you don't want him to eliminate on the same type of surface that he plays and sleeps in).

This set up is also useful for dogs that are not yet happy to spend time enclosed in their crates and while you are gradually getting them used to spending time in one.

Dear Mom and Dad: (Lucky's letter home at 8 1/2 weeks of age)

Yes, some overly busy days around here!!! All going well though. Lots of fun and sweetness and learning and exploring and silly antics...

Last night was Lucky's first campfire experience. She ran around the yard and forest with my two doggies all evening long(dead squirrel discovery, creek splashing, digging, wrestling, running, kids on trampoline bring her up for a hug, scooters, bikes, passers by on the street, and...) Then Lucky fell fast asleep on a blankie at the fireside!

I took Lucky along on the group dog walk on Thursday because there were only 5 other dogs (and all good ones of course). I brought a little "Snugli" kind of pack for her but I didn't end up carrying her very much. We were on gentle forest trails and she took it all in stride. Interaction with other dogs is perfect so far -- confident and responding appropriately to their subtle communications. She crossed a couple of simple wooden bridges with hardly a second glance at the gaps between the slats. An ATV went past (happily a quiet and slow one) My routine is to call all the dogs to me whenever a bike or such goes past and hand out the extra good treats so the other dogs and Lucky hardly noticed it! Ensure that new stimuli have positive associations and it isn't left up to chance!

Housetraining so far is going the best of any puppy I have ever had!
Crate training so far is going the worst of any puppy I have ever had!
... don't worry I'm not letting her get upset and stressed 'cause that is counterproductive to getting her to actually LIKE the crate in the end. My oldest daughter is done school now so Lucky is rarely alone long. If she is alone she is in an exercise pen so she doesn't associate crate with stress. Guess that long airplane flight didn't get crate training off to a good start for her. Sigh. Night time she is in a crate beside my bed but she is my first puppy that doesn't sleep through the night. She rouses and moans and fusses quite a few times in the night (she is generally a vocal little pup anyhow) my hand hangs over the edge of the bed and she settles easily with that now. (She doesn't have to eliminate in the night though) When I've had enough of restless sleep at about 5 am I haul her out of the crate and put her under the blankies with me until 7am. (I can't believe I did that past the first night!!! But I know that you are okay with that so.....!!! I have to take time out to play some games in and out of the crate (Such as "Crate Games" by Susan Garrett)



Back to housetraining. Many puppies have times when they are active and playing where they pee as often as every 20 minutes. Lucky has a bladder of steel. She easily goes 1 hr between and can make it all the way down the stairs and outside without having a quick stop along the way. She also learned how to use the doggie door ALL BY HERSELF! She does her biz in gravel or grass. Only two "accidents" so far (one of each kind) but at 8 weeks of age it isn't about the puppy having control it is about the owner taking the puppy out. We have a blank chart on the fridge door to record input and output to help keep track. (I will try to copy it and put it on my website)

Nipping and biting is part of puppyhood. They are learning about their world and learning about bite inhibition. Lucky's little shark teeth are testing the world allright! She learns how hard to bite when wrestling with other dogs -- if she clamps down too hard they tell her in doggie ways by yelping, stopping play, and perhaps giving her a short reprimand back. Human skin is even more delicate than dog fur so we also have to teach them not to bite hard when playing with us. Yelp sharply and stop play abruptly by standing up or walking away. Give them another try or substitute your hand with a toy. With repetition puppy will learn to inhibit biting. Lucky is progressing as can be expected. Many more weeks of repetition....

Obedience commands. Ugh ... I hate those words. They are signals or cues that we want them to learn as life skills. Dogs aren't meant to obey ... we must earn their willing compliance ... this isn't the time to go on and on about my views on training ;0) Puppy pushups is a fun little exercise (Sit, Down, Stand). Sit is fast becoming a default behaviour for Lucky! I love default behaviours! Whenever she wants attention she sits and looks at us! I never miss a chance to reinforce that behaviour, with a pat or a treat or playtime! She sits for her food dish and I almost see a hesitation waiting for the release word "okay"... Coming when called is so easy to teach a puppy! Lucky is no exception. Recall or come cues are all too easy to ruin though, so I am ensuring that something extra good or extra fun always follows ... and if not I would actually get her or not use the sacred recall word. Jumping up is fast extinguishing ... that's when people walk away and fun ends. Waiting at doorways is something that I feel is important to teach so we are playing around with that too. Smart puppy learning how to get the good things in life!

I worked at the vets on Thursday and brought in her stool sample in for testing. Negative for worms or eggs! Yay! Check with your vet again when you get back as apparently you want to have three successive negatives. I will bring her by the vets office again next week just to make sure vet visits are always happily anticipated! Mmmmm.... liver and friendly people!

She is eating and pooing normally. I have done some preliminary resource guarding prevention exercises by coming up to her food dish when she is eating and given her some extra yummy things so that people near her food dish are good news! These exercises should also be carried out with toys and bones. Speaking of which ... I have given her a couple of raw knuckle and marrow bones. Yum! At first she didn't know what to do with them and whined at it ... she soon figured it out though! She has eaten and drank out of a couple of different dishes in a couple of different locations. The water dish that she liked to dig in got replaced and put outside! Maybe I should buy a kiddie pool today for recreation time...

To teach her to accept handling I am in the habit of occasionally restraining her gently and holding a paw and fiddling with the toenails. Her ears are clean but I check them and pretend to clean them too. If she struggles slightly I maintain my hold and then when she is calm I set her down again and we have a little play time. I still have to do mouth and teeth handling...

Yesterday I took all three doggies to Sonja's school because they had a fun day. All the children crowding around her was like a fun party for Lucky! Then the three dogs got to zoom around the huge grassy field! Yay! To get to the school we had to walk over a concrete overpass that crossed the highway. On the way over, the children carried Lucky and on the way back over she confidently trotted back across. Then back in the van she fell fast asleep!

Riding in the van is a pleasurable experience for Lucky. She is calm and content. When she gets sleepy I put her in a small crate I have beside my drivers seat and there is no fussing there.

What else was on that checklist to expose her to in the crucial first 12 weeks of her life? Oh yeah ... household appliances, vacuum cleaner, different floor surfaces, people with glasses or hats or beards, cats, other peoples houses, check, check and double check. Have to go and visit with my friends horses today to put a checkmark on the livestock column...

And pictures .... yikes, I've been so busy having fun that I haven't taken enough pictures! Must remember to pack camera along with all the puppy gear!

Oh oh ... Lucky is awake from her nap! Gotta go! More adventures this weekend!

More reading on what experiences your puppy should have from 8 - 12 weeks of age: http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/puppys-first-month-home-8-12-weeks

First Steps Puppy Class - Session #3

The dogs and owners in this session are some of the best "partners" we have had! Usually the focus of a First Steps Puppy Class with puppies 8 - 16 weeks is to have an opportunity to have dog/dog social interaction and learn appropriate play, an opportunity to develop bite inhibition and to get a good start on socialization and handling with other people and in the class environment. The dogs in this group are off to a great start on all these things so we are working on foundation training behaviours such as attention or eye contact, response to name, zen (graduated levels of leave-it training) and impulse control exercises such as check-in and on-off switch and to release your dog before he makes his own decision when he is done being with you. We also started on puppy push-ups (sit, down, stand) and recall (come).

We've talked about the importance and the outcomes of every experience that a dog has, socialization, how dogs learn, and different ways a behaviour can be reinforced (treat, toy, praise, life rewards) and how to graduate to intermittent reinforcement. We've observed dog body language and the impacts our body language has on them, interrupted dog play with collar grabs with our own and with others' puppies.

I am impressed how many of the owners are understanding the benefits of management to prevent behaviour problems (crates, baby gates, tie-downs, etc.) Owners are also understanding that they must be an advocate for their dog and decide what situations their dogs should be prevented from being in in order to not learn undesirable behaviours inadvertently. A shy dog is not going to benefit from well meaning people coming up to it (and learning to bite to keep people away) any more than a jumpy dog is going to learn not to jump on people if he keeps getting attention for full body contact. If a dog lunges and pulls towards another dog they have just been rewarded for unruly behaviour and not paying any attention to you ... our puppies are learning that if there is something they want that they show some self control and check in with their owners first and then either something better happens or they may get a chance to be released (OK go play) and play with that dog after all -- but on the owners terms. Premack Principle!
See my friend Katharine's blog: http://happy-houndz.blogspot.com/p/premack-principle-great-for-recalls.html
and my favourite dog training mentor:
Ian Dunbar on dog-friendly dog training | Video on TED.com

Everyone seemed to understand that if a dog is worried or overstimulated that he is not in the optimal state for learning (reactive, hind brain). Cash in your chips and remove yourself and your doggie from the situation. Just get outta Dodge. Move away and increase your distance from the distraction (fearful object or exciting stimulus) until your dog is at a point that he can focus. Putting your body inbetween your dog and the stimulus (body blocking) can also help diffuse the situation. Having some favourite and heavily reinforced behaviours (tricks such as shake-a-paw or eye contact with you) can sometimes be used to get the dog to re-connect with you.



Shaping ... there were a few times when we couldn't get the full desired behaviour from a dog. (laying all the way down, turning full attention to mom) Because we were still in the process of learning we rewarded a close approximation of the response rather than having a dog give up and stop engaging in the training game with us altogether. It would also be a good idea to do a bit more training in a less stimulating environment to solidify the foundation as well.

We have a shy little Chihuahua in this group but his Mommy is doing a great job and the little guy is adjusting more every week. Mom has a plan for getting him used to his harness and leash and other new things in his world. For shy dog owners this is a great website: http://www.fearfuldogs.com/index.html



We want to have as many tools in our toolbox for training as possible so if you don't control your dogs' meals it is one less tool that you have control of. There are also other benefits to being in control over how much and when your dog eats. See this article: http://www.dragonflyllama.com/%20DOGS/Writing/TeachEat.html

Cat chasing questions came up a couple of times and I didn't give a very good response at the time. There are so many factors involved! Instinct and hardwired behaviours are very hard to stop once the dog has learned them. Once you know, you can't un-know! Dogs are most motivated by reinforcement -- meaning that if there is a chance of something good happening they are going to try every chance they can get if there is any possibility of a good outcome (reiforcement, chase, etc.) We could possibly inhibit their behaviour or distract them but just like gambling addicts, if there is even a slight possibility of winning the jackpot (lottery, chance to chase a cat, etc.) then that is the best motivation. So sadly, prevention is the best plan and teaching that alternatives are just as good ... or a long but possible re-training process. Hmmm..... I'll have to find a good website article on that... quick look but this site often has some good info: http://www.diamondsintheruff.com/catchasing.html



Thanks to all the handlers and puppies for coming to our sessions. Your puppies have a lifetime of learning -- not to scare you -- but it is largely up to you what they actually learn ... and yes, old dogs can learn new tricks so you are in for many years of training too :0) Training should be all about fun and keeping your dog interacting with you so it is all good.

And don't worry ... my dogs have some behaviours I wish they hadn't learned either ;0)

Great Crates!

Why teach your dog to be comfortable in a crate?
... this could be the start of a really loooooong list ...

The first thing that comes to mind is Puppy training. Housetraining is so much easier with a crate. For that matter even adult dogs that need housetraining learn faster if using a crate. Puppy chewing is easily prevented if you can use a crate for unsupervised times. Even older dogs sometimes have lapses in chewing under times of stress or moving. Good to have an option to fall back on. Preventing separation anxiety is oh so much easier than treating it! Teach your dog to be calm and comfortable in a crate.

If your dog is worried about guests or workers around the home they may enjoy some time in their safe, cozy spot!
Your dog doesn't learn to bark out the front window.
He can't learn to dig or jump fences and escape while you are away from home.
If you feed you dog bones and don't want icky-goo all over the floors ... feed them in the crate and then wipe out the tray.

Introduce your puppy or a dog to a crate and keep them used to using one occasionally as a "lifetime" tool. If your dog is injured one day and needs bed-rest as part of treatment then you don't have to add another stress to your dog... they are already familiar with crate-rest. Trips to the veterinarian, groomer or boarding facility will be less stressful as well. Who knows, maybe one day you will want to compete in one of the many exciting dog shows or sports and then having a dog that relaxes in his crate will help win ribbons :0)

Besides ... how about those times you can't leave your dog in a hot vehicle (or a cold truck) but could bring the dog indoors with you if he was in a crate. Or if you have to visit the in-laws but they don't want your dog underfoot ... you could set up a crate in their living room and your dog and you could still come! Nevermind, bad example ... sorry ... I can't come visit ... my dog isn't crate trained.

One of the better articles on the web. Easy to read and understand.
http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html

Nip it in the bud!

I don't know about the origins of that expression but I DO know the origins of dog behaviours! Whether is it desirable behaviour (good dog) or undesirable behaviour in our eyes (bad dog or problem dog) the behaviour happens because it was reinforced in SOME way. Reinforcement comes in many forms!

(see recent post on Dog Star Daily http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/treat-any-other-name%E2%80%A6

Little Lucky puppy for some reason has started barking as she excitedly runs down the stairs. I know that if something happens once or twice it is likely to happen again! The barking may not be entirely conscious but it is part of the excitement and can quickly become a learned behaviour. I will ensure that for the next little while that stair descents are not so exciting and stimulating and then reinforce the new behaviour using praise and edibles and... I will reinforce for calm descents!

As a separate training game I will play "turn on and off switch" or "Silly Sit" with her. I will start teaching her to "target" as well. My own dogs go to "spot" at the foot of the stairs. The more "foundation behaviours" that a dog knows the easier it is to teach new behaviours or problem solve!

See our Training Workshops and sign up to teach your dog some foundation behaviours and learn more about reinforcement. See http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/step-one.html

Puppy's First 48 Hours!

Lucky arrived 48 hours ago. It's been very very busy! I was going to write about the first 24 hours but now 48 hours have gone by!

Oh so cute! Soft and warm and cuddly! Sharp teeth, puppy breath and hilarious antics! Lucky is an outgoing girl and is learning about the world around her!

Her temperament appears nicely balanced. Lucky has taken the new surroundings of our home in stride. She has met many new things including a few dogs, two cats, toddlers, preschoolers, children, men and women, bicycles, wagons, and has started skateboard training....

Lucky has gone for two short car rides, explored forested trails near the river, stumbled over rocks and splashed her paws in water. Opal and Trixie taught her how to dig already too! She can now not only race up but also down the stairs. Neither noisy household appliances, trucks outside or bouncing children on the trampoline seem to fizz her. Tonight the neigbours two boys ran down the driveway at us with their hockey gear on. Wiggly happy puppy wanted to play with them. Now let me see what else is on that checklist of things to expose a puppy to before it is 12 weeks of age and the "critcal socialization period" comes to an end...?!

Lucky is jumping up on us less already. She can often be found sitting and looking at us as if saying "please".... that's what gets attention from us xo!

Nipping and Biting will of course continue over the next few weeks. We do want to help her learn bite inhibition. Our human skin is delicate ... "Yelp! Then try again and be a bit more gentle or bite this toy instead." Repeat, repeat, repeat.

Chew this and not that. Supervision and management. Furniture and carpets discouraged and Kong Toys and chew sticks encouraged. Repeat repeat repeat.

Housetraining has been great so far ... only one pee in the house. Everything else has made it outside on the grass or gravel. Realistic expectations. Praise and reinforcement! Good habits starting! Sure, she's a "good" puppy but I take the credit for this one :0)

Crate training has had some successes and some challenges.
The first night was unsettling even with her in a crate right beside my bed. My arm hanging over the edge of my bed and hand inside the crate. She still fussed every hour or so. Yes, I admit ... by the time 5am came around I was not ready to wake up so she came into bed with me. (I can always erase this post right?) Two hours of sleep! The second night Lucky was only up once for a pee break and then right back to sleep. Maybe it was that long play session in the yard that evening... Or the warm beanbag. Yay!
Daytime is the next crate challenge. Lucky is only content in the crate if she is very tired.... when she falls asleep on a cushion or in my arms I move her to the crate. If she rouses then usually a gentle stroking will settle her again. When she starts to wake I let her out before she gets restless. We are already working on impulse control and not pushing past the crate door ... more on that later! When I had to leave her alone for a couple of hours I left her in an "error-less environment" -- a gated off puppy proofed area with an open crate inside, chew toys, water and a different surface (newspaper, pads) in the corner. I will admit that she made unhappy vocalizations but by the time I came back she was sleeping in the open crate. In the meantime I am trying to feed her in the crate, play games in and out of the crate, and making crate times good times.

Wish me luck for another good Lucky night :0)
Sweet puppy dreams!
Auntie Maren

Before and After you get your Puppy books by Dr. Ian Dunbar are the greatest! They are available for free download from:
http://www.dogstardaily.com/free-downloads

New Puppy Arrives!!!

Oh my goodness ... what was I thinking?!? Funny how cute fuzzy faces tempt us to do crazy things!
We are looking after a baby Wirehaired Hungarian Vizsla for just over 2 weeks. "Lucky" is actually a half-sister to Opal so how could I refuse!? Lucky flew from Michigan on the East coast and arrived in Seattle on Friday. Luckily she had a littermate to keep her company on the journey. Her wonderful new owners had two days with her before driving up from Vancouver and bringing her to us yesterday. It was very hard for them to leave their new puppy of course but they had a prearranged trip overseas and didn't want to wait until the next litter of little WHV puppies.
So ... that is how we came to look after this new little fuzz baby...

I plan to write an entry most days and take some pictures and videos.
Hopefully following this blog will help other new puppy owners.
Topics will include: socialization, housetraining, crate training, nippping and biting, early training, etc...

Vidor Vizslas is the same breeder that our 3 year old Opal came from. Check them out at
http://wirehairedvizslas.webs.com/home.htm

Crepuscular

Crepuscular (Adjective): used to describe some animals that are primarily active during twilight, that is at dawn and dusk. Crepuscular animals may also be active on a bright moonlit night.



Knowing this will help you to anticipate your dogs' needs ... and so that you aren't surprised by his "misbehaviours".

Have you ever heard the term "acid hour" applied to toddlers just before bedtime?

When my dog Opal was a puppy she was no exception! One of my favourite activities to keep her occupied during busy evenings was giving her a box to tear apart and digging in the bottom of it because it had biscuit crumbs hidden under the flaps. What fun that was to watch!

A long off leash walk, romping, sniffing, running and swimming is one of the best things that you can do to fulfill your dogs physical needs ... but never underestimate how exhausting some mental stimulation and brain work exercises can be!

To the rescue:
- Training session: teach your dog some new cues and tricks
- Kong toys stuffed with goodies
- 101 things you can do with a box
- target games: weave through legs, play dead, wave, rollover, etc.
- mat games
- find it, hide and seek, search
- retrieve, clean up your toys

See Enrichment http://www.aspcabehavior.org/articles/65/Enriching-Your-Dogs-Life.aspx

Play!!!

Play is crucial to the health and well being of your dog! Dogs are social animals and benefit from interaction with their own species. They also benefit from interaction with us. If we play appropriate games with our dogs it strengthens our relationship with each other. If we have a better relationship with each other then we communicate better with each other. Communicating and play is an important element of training and a fun one too!

See our PLAY AND GAMES WORKSHOP that helps you learn how to play with your dog and use play in training:
http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/play-and-games.html



As for the much debated question about whether to play tug-a-war games...
http://www.4pawsu.com/tugofwardog.htm

First Steps Puppy Class

First night of a new set of Puppy's First Steps Class at Eagleview Veterinary Hospital this evening. The first night can always be a bit of mayhem... not knowing what the puppies personalities are and how they will interact with each other and with their owners. This group was a pleasant surprise! From the Great Dane to the Chihuahua and the four others in between there were no extremes in temperament. The owners and the two children were all great too. Puppy mouthing, nipping and chewing were the most prevalent concerns for all.

See our PUPPIES OUT AND ABOUT WORKSHOP addressing biting, chewing and mouthing as well as other puppy issues:
http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/puppies-wanna-learn-too.html

also see general articles on nipping and biting:
http://www.dfs-pet-blog.com/2010/01/puppy-nipping-and-mouthing/
http://www.diamondsintheruff.com/biteinhibition.html

Sit and Look Before you Leap!

Not every dog in our group knows the cue "Stay" or "Wait" so I look for a default behaviour which in this situation is for the dog to sit and watch me until I release them with their name or ok go play!



OUR workshop that teaches you how to use default behaviour in every day life:

* STEP ONE - Start Here* http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/step-one.html

Soggy Doggy!

Have you heard the term "Junuary?" It sure describes the weather this last little while! Lots of soggy doggies! Here are a few pics! Wet! Muddy! Shake! Splash!

Is your dog "reactive"?

Reactive dog
A reactive dog will rush toward something or someone that he is uncertain about, barking, lunging, growling, and making a big display. People sometimes perceive reactive behavior as aggression, but a reactive dog is not rushing in to do damage; he is attempting to assess the threat level of a given situation. ... Reactive dogs are anxious, and their response is intense because they are freaking out."

- Leslie McDevitt, Control Unleashed

http://controlunleashed.net/

* OUR workshop addressing this issue is called : "Wheels in motion" http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/wheels-in-motion.html