The dogs and owners in this session are some of the best "partners" we have had! Usually the focus of a First Steps Puppy Class with puppies 8 - 16 weeks is to have an opportunity to have dog/dog social interaction and learn appropriate play, an opportunity to develop bite inhibition and to get a good start on socialization and handling with other people and in the class environment. The dogs in this group are off to a great start on all these things so we are working on foundation training behaviours such as attention or eye contact, response to name, zen (graduated levels of leave-it training) and impulse control exercises such as check-in and on-off switch and to release your dog before he makes his own decision when he is done being with you. We also started on puppy push-ups (sit, down, stand) and recall (come).
We've talked about the importance and the outcomes of every experience that a dog has, socialization, how dogs learn, and different ways a behaviour can be reinforced (treat, toy, praise, life rewards) and how to graduate to intermittent reinforcement. We've observed dog body language and the impacts our body language has on them, interrupted dog play with collar grabs with our own and with others' puppies.
I am impressed how many of the owners are understanding the benefits of management to prevent behaviour problems (crates, baby gates, tie-downs, etc.) Owners are also understanding that they must be an advocate for their dog and decide what situations their dogs should be prevented from being in in order to not learn undesirable behaviours inadvertently. A shy dog is not going to benefit from well meaning people coming up to it (and learning to bite to keep people away) any more than a jumpy dog is going to learn not to jump on people if he keeps getting attention for full body contact. If a dog lunges and pulls towards another dog they have just been rewarded for unruly behaviour and not paying any attention to you ... our puppies are learning that if there is something they want that they show some self control and check in with their owners first and then either something better happens or they may get a chance to be released (OK go play) and play with that dog after all -- but on the owners terms. Premack Principle!
See my friend Katharine's blog: http://happy-houndz.blogspot.com/p/premack-principle-great-for-recalls.html
and my favourite dog training mentor:
Ian Dunbar on dog-friendly dog training | Video on TED.com
Everyone seemed to understand that if a dog is worried or overstimulated that he is not in the optimal state for learning (reactive, hind brain). Cash in your chips and remove yourself and your doggie from the situation. Just get outta Dodge. Move away and increase your distance from the distraction (fearful object or exciting stimulus) until your dog is at a point that he can focus. Putting your body inbetween your dog and the stimulus (body blocking) can also help diffuse the situation. Having some favourite and heavily reinforced behaviours (tricks such as shake-a-paw or eye contact with you) can sometimes be used to get the dog to re-connect with you.
Shaping ... there were a few times when we couldn't get the full desired behaviour from a dog. (laying all the way down, turning full attention to mom) Because we were still in the process of learning we rewarded a close approximation of the response rather than having a dog give up and stop engaging in the training game with us altogether. It would also be a good idea to do a bit more training in a less stimulating environment to solidify the foundation as well.
We have a shy little Chihuahua in this group but his Mommy is doing a great job and the little guy is adjusting more every week. Mom has a plan for getting him used to his harness and leash and other new things in his world. For shy dog owners this is a great website: http://www.fearfuldogs.com/index.html
We want to have as many tools in our toolbox for training as possible so if you don't control your dogs' meals it is one less tool that you have control of. There are also other benefits to being in control over how much and when your dog eats. See this article: http://www.dragonflyllama.com/%20DOGS/Writing/TeachEat.html
Cat chasing questions came up a couple of times and I didn't give a very good response at the time. There are so many factors involved! Instinct and hardwired behaviours are very hard to stop once the dog has learned them. Once you know, you can't un-know! Dogs are most motivated by reinforcement -- meaning that if there is a chance of something good happening they are going to try every chance they can get if there is any possibility of a good outcome (reiforcement, chase, etc.) We could possibly inhibit their behaviour or distract them but just like gambling addicts, if there is even a slight possibility of winning the jackpot (lottery, chance to chase a cat, etc.) then that is the best motivation. So sadly, prevention is the best plan and teaching that alternatives are just as good ... or a long but possible re-training process. Hmmm..... I'll have to find a good website article on that... quick look but this site often has some good info: http://www.diamondsintheruff.com/catchasing.html
Thanks to all the handlers and puppies for coming to our sessions. Your puppies have a lifetime of learning -- not to scare you -- but it is largely up to you what they actually learn ... and yes, old dogs can learn new tricks so you are in for many years of training too :0) Training should be all about fun and keeping your dog interacting with you so it is all good.
And don't worry ... my dogs have some behaviours I wish they hadn't learned either ;0)
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