Targeting -- just like YOGA?!

"Target training is like meditation and focusing on breathing..."

I don't remember where I heard this but it is a good correlation.

When your dog is doing target training he isn't reacting to the world around him ie: not barking at passing bicycles, etc. Target training is an excellent focusing exercise.

Dogs that are fearful or bark at things in their environment can benefit from incorporating target training into their daily activities.

Target training is also an element of many important obedience type behaviours such as come and heel.

Many of those fun tricks you see dogs do are taught by target training.

Having fun with your dog strengthens your relationship and helps training too!

When a training exercise is simple and fun the owner and dog are more likely to do it too!

Join us in learning how to use target training in daily interactions with your dog.

See STEP ONE Training Workshops http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/step-one.html

Speak Softly and Carry a Big Stick

"Speak softly and carry a big stick"

According to wiki.answers.com Theodore Roosevelt originated this phrase as a description of his foreign policy when he was President of the United States. Roosevelt attributed the proverb to West Africa, but its origin isn't known.

Perhaps you remember this phrase ... "Speak Softly and Carry a Beagle"?



How about "Whisper and carry a big stick"?

Whispering is a popular buzz word in dog training. It is also used in the horse world. True, you don't have to raise your voice, but you don't have to carry a big stick as a means of force either. A big stick is great for playtime with a stick motivated dog though!

I have often been referred to as a "Dog Whisperer". This phrase can have different connotations. If it means that you don't have to shout at your dog then yes, you can call me a dog whisperer.

There is so much more involved than whispering when training your dog.

Often I don't use any verbalizations at all when interacting with my dogs. Dogs are less tuned in to vocal signals than other signs. They don't need to listen to the blah blah blah that comes out of our mouths to be "in tune" with us and follow our lures as we use our bodies to communicate (ie. handsignals)...hence......the whispering myth busted! really nothing has to be said when it comes down to it..

Check out this article on Dog Whispering:
http://www.4pawsu.com/dogpsychology.htm

To develop a truly great relationship with your dog you need to know about their natural behaviours, principles of learning, motivations, reinforcements, environmental stimuli, impulse control, how your body language affects their actions, ... and much more.

Join our STEP ONE Training Workshop to learn to whisper and play and train your dog:
http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/step-one.html

Berry Yummy Treats on the Trail!!!

Another opportunity to train your dog that you don't want to miss out on! No drilling obedience exercises and long work sessions ... learn how to use opportunities in daily life to train your dog.

I teach my dogs to check in with me whenever I stop on the trail. We practice this in day to day interactions. It is more a way of communicating and a game than a command. When they check in with me they are thanked or reinforced with some type of reward or game or interaction ... or in this case a chance to pick their own berries!



Through the simple fun training games that my dogs and I play together they learn to be more attentive to me. These games are useful tools to help problems such as bike chasing, rushing at other trails users, devouring yuck on the trails, etc.

Join us in a STEP ONE Training Workshop and then progress to single topic focused workshops and learn how to train your dog the day by day play way... dogs or puppies!

http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/step-one.html

Particleboard of Meat!

Hot Dogs ... The Particleboard of Meat!

They make for a good quick enticing training treat mind you...

Cut the hot dogs in half lengthwise. Slice them thinly. Spread the slices out on a plate covered with paper towels. Cover with another paper towel and NUKE them until they get blistery and dried around some edges. Blot and squish with more paper towels. Store in a baggie or container in the fridge ... or you might get greasy pockets just like me :0)

This recipe in in honour of a band I love called "The Arrogant Worms". Check them out...
http://www.arrogantworms.com/music/hot-dog-song/

Now if after you hear that song you still are considering feeding hot dogs to your dog (or to your family for that matter) ... do consider it a junk food and use it sparingly. Choose a variety as "healthy" as possible.

See my website for more recipes http://pawinhand.com/pages/sniff/yummy-things.php

or the Paw In Hand Dog Blog under TREAT search for some healthier alternatives! http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/search/label/TREATS

Tricks to work on over the Summer Holidays!

Our family is off on our holiday for a week. Our doggies are coming along too. We are going to do some training at the beach just like the dogs in this video!!!

Practice some targeting games with your dog (nose and paw touches) and you too can train your dog to do fun tricks like on the video!!! Have fun with your training "home-fun" (homework) and when I get back from holidays we'll get together and put on a video similar to this one okay?!

Heat Wave Warning! Please take time out to read...

When I had my group of doggies out on the field trip yesterday I was very conscious of the increased risk of heat stroke, especially so for a few of the dogs. One was a hunting breed that is "go go go go" running through the forest type of dog that doesn't know when to stop. A couple of sessions on leash were necessary to help regulate body temperature. Another large overweight dog and a thick coated dog had to be watched carefully too. Luckily these dogs were all ones that readily dipped their bellies into the cool creek!

I of course chose shaded trails yesterday, decreased my pace and ensured we kept doubling back to the fresh water holes. I carry a first aid kit in my back pack, emergency phone numbers and an extra water bottle too!

I am certified in Canine First Aid. It was a very informative course! If you are interested in taking a Canine First Aid Course with Dog Safe check out: http://www.dogsafe.ca/index.html

Please take a few minutes out to read this so that you are aware of signs to look out for. Prevention is the best of course though!






Dog Heatstroke - Symptoms, Treatment and Prevention
Posted by Clare Bristow
Dog Heat Stroke can strike in minutes on hot, humid days, and may prove fatal if it's not treated promptly.
The good news is that it's preventable and I've listed below the symptoms of heat stroke, how to treat and prevent it, and the dogs most likely to suffer from heatstroke.

What is Heat Stroke?
Heat stroke occurs when your dog is no longer able to maintain his normal body temperature of approximately 101F and it rises to 105F and above.
At temperatures above 106F your dog's internal organs will start to breakdown, and if he's not cooled quickly enough, he will die. Even if you can bring his temperature down, he may well have suffered irreversible internal damage.
Dog's regulate their temperature primarily through panting - on hot, humid days they are unable to cool their bodies effectively, and as a result their body temperature rises rapidly.
If your dog's temperature exceeds 106F, you only have minutes to save his life.
Symptoms of Heat Stroke
If your dog has heat stroke he will progressively show these signs:
Excessive panting;
Pale gums, bright red tongue;
Disorientation and your dog doesn't respond to his name;
Increased heart rate;
Thick saliva;
Vomiting;
Breathing difficulties;
Collapse;
Coma;
Death
Treatment
Heat stroke often occurs because a dog is confined, either in a car, kennel or crate; the first thing to do is remove your dog from where he was confined.
Make sure your dog is out of the sun and has access to water but don't let him drink too much.
Cool him with cool/tepid water - either immerse him in a bath, gently hose him or apply cool towels to his body. Importantly do not leave wet towels on your dog and do not use very cold water - both prevent your dog form being able to cool himself.
Move your dog to an area where there is cool air circulating, such as an air conditioned room or stand him in front of a fan. The cool circulating air will help your dog to reduce his temperature.
Keep monitoring your dog's temperature with a rectal thermometer; once it returns to normal stop the cooling process.
Whilst you are cooling your dog down phone your local emergency dog clinic, explain the situation and perform any additional treatment they suggest before taking him to the clinic.
Even if you manage to reduce your dog's temperature at home, take him to your vet for a thorough checkup - internal damage to your dog's organs might have taken place even though he recovered from heat stroke.
Dogs Prone to Heatstroke
Young puppies and older dogs;
Overweight dogs;
Dogs with an existing illness or recovering from illness or surgery;
Dog breeds with short faces - Bulldogs, Shar pei, Boston Terriers, Pugs - have narrow respiratory systems that easily get overwhelmed in hot and humid conditions;
Double coated breeds such as Chow Chows; and
Dogs bred for cold climates such as Malamutes, Huskies and Newfoundlands.

Preventing Heat Stroke
Be aware that the outside temperature can be a lot warmer than that shown on your thermometer -on humid days the relative temperature is much higher;
Dogs really don't know when to stop - try and keep your dog's activity to a minimum particularly on hot and humid days;
Exercise your dog early in the morning and/or later in the evening when the temperature is cooler;
If possible keep your dog indoors during the heat of the day in a well ventilated or air conditioned room; and
If your dog is outside during the day, make sure there is plenty of shady areas for him to lie in and he has access to cold water. If he likes water, put a paddling pool of water for him in a shady part of the garden so he can lie in that to keep cool, otherwise periodically spray him with cool water.

PUPPY COME!

I have attended a few training clinics with Susan Garrett. Here is an article by her on recall training:
http://www.clickerdogs.com/perfectrecallaccount.htm

We offer a training workshop that teaches you fun games to help you with recall training:
http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/you-just-call-out-my-nameand-ill-come.html

My puppy is better behaved than your honour student...

okay ... those bumper stickers that I see with similar phrases are a bit goofy but I wanted to get your attention...

I have a lot of video footage that I want to put together this weekend with some beginner training tips. Check back in the next week or so.

Here is a teaser....



We offer training workshops to help you teach similar behaviours -- dogs or puppies!
http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/step-one.html

Does your dog KNOW it?

What does "knowing" what something means mean anyhow?

Does your dog know to respond to a "command" (certain cue or set of cues)?

Do you know what that sign at the edge of the road with the numbers and the kph letters at the side of the road means?

You know that you should obey traffic laws but do you always abide by them? Sometimes you are distracted and may not have noticed the last sign you passed. You may be in a rush to get somewhere and "misbehave" because it is important to you at that moment. You may not really remember details such as what hours playground speed limits are in effect. Your speedometer may be out of adjustment or you may not have looked at it! Or you may simply choose to break some laws because (choose one) there are never police around anyhow, school is out today, everyone else is speeding, etc.... Even if there is a chance of "punishment" (speeding ticket) you are likely to risk it because it is important to you (getting to work faster and on time) and history has shown that most of the time it is worth continuing with your habits. You only slow down when you know there is a speed trap.

Your dog will continue to get on the couch because it is instantly comfortable and worth the risk ... he only gets off when you are around. What does he know? Different set of cues! Another dog may not find the couch so tempting because they are less motivated by soft and comfy ... not because they know they shouldn't be on there.

Does your dog know what "sit" means when you are holding a cookie? When you have no cookie? When you are standing in front of him? When you are sitting on a chair or lying down on the floor and asking for a sit? When he is in the middle of wrestling with a dog buddy? When he is lying down? When you are wearing your Halloween costume? When you have strong perfume on and are wearing odd high heeled shoes on that make you walk different than usual?

Humans consider themselves to be the intelligent species and yet we seem to expect our dogs to abide by standards stricter that those we set for ourselves! Interesting eh!?!

Whether a dog (or a human) responds to a cue (signal, command, painted line, etc) depends on many things. Cues are often a combination of verbal, visual and environmental signals. Your dog may know "sit" in the kitchen with you standing upright and holding the food bowl but to him it is a completely different cue than when you ask him to sit when he wants to greet your guests. Dogs don't generalize learning very well. If we want them to learn what "sit" means in different contexts we must train them.

Training. That's a whole book in itself but in brief ... repeatedly setting up situations in which your dog will perform a behaviour, reinforcing it and then rinse, lather and repeat. Then behind the ears. Then the backside. In the early stages of acquiring a behaviour use lots of reinforcements. Gradually move to intermittent reinforcements and then to a variable schedule of reinforcement. Always mix it up with praise, toys, games, and life rewards. Practice in different locations and situations until each behaviour is generalized. Slowly add duration and distraction and difficulty one at a time. Over time the dog will respond out of habit because is has proven to be beneficial in the past! It was worth gambling on. It has become a well trained behaviour and then we could say he knows it ... well, maybe in most situations anyhow.

So yes, you do have to put in some time if you want your dog to learn the things that you want him to learn.

And ponder this ... once you really do know something ... you can't "un-know" it. Like when you form a bad habit then it is very hard to change. So make sure your dog doesn't learn some of those undesirable habits that once you know the outcome of them, you can't unlearn or un-know them. Prevent incidental learning by management because once your dog has learned how to knock over the garbage to have a smorgasbord it will be hard to resist that temptation again! So having your garbage secured at ALL times, etc....... but that's for another blog entry...



We offer training workshops -- dogs or puppies!
http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/step-one.html

Here is a training chart that Katherine and I made up to help you plan your training in gradual steps (slowly increasing distraction, duration, and difficulty)
* sorry, link coming soon ... will be on my website under "Stuff to Sniff": www.pawinhand.com

Simple but good general training article:
http://www.sdhumane.org/site/DocServer/BT_K9-Secrets_of_Dog_Training.pdf?docID=600

The Other End Of The Leash - by Patricia B. McConnell Ph.D. (available at the Squamish Public Library or from www.dogwise.com

ATTENTION!

Now that I have your attention, I had better make it worth your while!

You want your dog to pay attention to you? You had better make it worth his while as well.

I often see dogs check in and look at their owners and there is no one looking back. Desirable "good" dog behaviour gone unnoticed. After a while the dog will check in with their owners less and less often and look for opportunities elsewhere instead. No doubt, undesirable "bad" dog opportunities...

Missed opportunities for owners!

No long training sessions or commands needed. Just watch out of the corner of your eye while you are going about your daily activities. When your dog glances at you, quickly catch that wonderful desirable behaviour in the act! Promptly mark it with a "yeah" or a "yes" and then immediately follow it with some type of reinforcement (treat, toy, game, chance to follow you, life reward, etc.) Keep the element of surprise in your reinforcements. Quickly root for the leftover ham, toss the empty water bottle for him to fetch, tickle him and have a wrestle ... all the while giggling happily and being merry.

If a behaviour is reinforced it is more likely to be repeated. If looking at you is worthwhile to your dog he will not go looking for his own adventures.

Did you read to the end of this blog post? Guess I made it worth your while. Drop me a note so that all this blogging is worth my while too :0)



Our workshop teaching you beginning attention exercises and progressions:
http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/step-one.html

Marin Humane Society has a couple of great articles on training attention. You have to sign in but the library of excellent articles is worth it!
http://www.marinhumanesociety.org/behavior/handouts.asp

Dog Scouts of America also has a good article.
http://dogscouts.org/Indirect_Access.html

Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious!!!

If you offered me a dollar to put a finger on the tip of my nose, stand on one leg and jump up and down, I would probably do it! ... and if you asked me to do it all while simultaneously singing supercalifragilisticexpialidocious -- I would probably do that too!

Another person may not be so willing. If they refuse to do it are they stubborn?

Would they perhaps do it for $100?
Would they do it in a different environment where they may be more comfortable such as at home in their livingroom?
Would they do it if they were in a different emotional state such as after a few drinks, or together with friends, or in costume on a stage ...?
Or maybe they can't do it no matter the reward if they have physical limitations or pain.

Different individuals have different motivations and can be reinforced by different things....

Dogs have different motivations just like humans. Why are dogs labeled as stubborn and people aren't?

So next time you call your dog stubborn think again...
And then learn about behaviour, training and motivating... upcoming posts on training progression, distractions, and Nothing In Life Is Free type programs coming soon!

Here is a good article on this and other dog training myths. Enjoy your new enlightenment!

http://www.apdt.com/petowners/choose/myths.aspx

Brush and Floss Daily!

Well, okay maybe not the flossing part ... but it is a good idea to brush your dog daily to get him used to holding still, being brushed, examined and handled as a part of a daily routine. This is also good practice in the likelihood of your dog needing medical attention, bandaging or other treatments. If your dog is used to being handled then in an emergency situation there is not the added stress of being restrained and possible prolonged recovery.

You can even teach your dog to enjoy wearing a muzzle or a "cone" and if the need arises at some point in his life then there is no added element of stress.




or conditioning to anything for that matter! This is a great video ... watch for the dog's "Yipee response" at each step of the process.



In our STEP ONE Training Workshop we teach you the beginning steps of targeting, body handling, and how to add value so that your dog eagerly anticipates these times instead of merely tolerating, or worse, struggling and increasing their fears.

http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/step-one.html

DIG THIS!

I love nothing more than to watch dogs doing doggie things! Uninhibited sheer joy in divine canine activities!

My own dogs love to dig and I encourage them to do so ... in appropriate places mind you. Dogs need outlets to partake in natural instinctual behaviours if we want them to be well balanced companions. They don't all have to dig but they do need to have some type of seeking activity. Other games which provide outlet for natural drives are Tug-a-War, hide and seek, find it and fetch games. (Yes, it's okay to play Tug-a-War with your dog ... check back soon for a post on that!)

Children get sandboxes to play in. Dogs can have designated digging pits! If they have a special spot where they can dig and occasionally find a special treasure (that you secretly buried there), then they will be much more likely to dig in their special spot more often ... rather than under your prized peonies where the picking isn't so good.



See our Training Workshop "Fun and Games" and get your dog started on tricks and games that simulate natural outlets for your dogs' energies!
http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/play-and-games.html

For more information on digging see:
http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/digging.html

From Zen to Leave It

Warning: Subject matter may not be suitable for all family members and viewer discretion is advised ... dead squirrel :0(

I don't want to have to shout "Leave it" in threatening tones everytime my dog discovers an object of desire to eat or roll in ... I prefer my dog to have a "default" leave it behaviour.
Think children running around with hot dogs in their hands ... isn't it a given that the dog should default to leaving them alone and not having to be told?!
These exercises are some of the beginning steps:



Our workshop teaching you Zen exercises and their progressions are:
http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/step-one.html

Long Term Confinement Area

Setting up a suitable "Long Term Confinement Area" is a way of keeping Wuffie safe from harm, to aid in housetraining, prevent destructive behaviours, and prevent many other behaviours that puppy (or adolescent) might inadvertently learn if left to his/her own devices ... ie: digging, chewing, barking out the window, chasing the cat, counter-surfing, etc.

It is typically set up in an area of the home that Wuffie regularly spends time and is comfortable in. A fold out exercise pen is securely attached to the crate. At one end of the area is the crate and perhaps a second soft resting area, inside are safe chew toys such as a stuffed Kong, a water dish and possibly a different type of substrate (such as newspaper) in case Wuffie needs to relieve himself (but you don't want him to eliminate on the same type of surface that he plays and sleeps in).

This set up is also useful for dogs that are not yet happy to spend time enclosed in their crates and while you are gradually getting them used to spending time in one.

Dear Mom and Dad: (Lucky's letter home at 8 1/2 weeks of age)

Yes, some overly busy days around here!!! All going well though. Lots of fun and sweetness and learning and exploring and silly antics...

Last night was Lucky's first campfire experience. She ran around the yard and forest with my two doggies all evening long(dead squirrel discovery, creek splashing, digging, wrestling, running, kids on trampoline bring her up for a hug, scooters, bikes, passers by on the street, and...) Then Lucky fell fast asleep on a blankie at the fireside!

I took Lucky along on the group dog walk on Thursday because there were only 5 other dogs (and all good ones of course). I brought a little "Snugli" kind of pack for her but I didn't end up carrying her very much. We were on gentle forest trails and she took it all in stride. Interaction with other dogs is perfect so far -- confident and responding appropriately to their subtle communications. She crossed a couple of simple wooden bridges with hardly a second glance at the gaps between the slats. An ATV went past (happily a quiet and slow one) My routine is to call all the dogs to me whenever a bike or such goes past and hand out the extra good treats so the other dogs and Lucky hardly noticed it! Ensure that new stimuli have positive associations and it isn't left up to chance!

Housetraining so far is going the best of any puppy I have ever had!
Crate training so far is going the worst of any puppy I have ever had!
... don't worry I'm not letting her get upset and stressed 'cause that is counterproductive to getting her to actually LIKE the crate in the end. My oldest daughter is done school now so Lucky is rarely alone long. If she is alone she is in an exercise pen so she doesn't associate crate with stress. Guess that long airplane flight didn't get crate training off to a good start for her. Sigh. Night time she is in a crate beside my bed but she is my first puppy that doesn't sleep through the night. She rouses and moans and fusses quite a few times in the night (she is generally a vocal little pup anyhow) my hand hangs over the edge of the bed and she settles easily with that now. (She doesn't have to eliminate in the night though) When I've had enough of restless sleep at about 5 am I haul her out of the crate and put her under the blankies with me until 7am. (I can't believe I did that past the first night!!! But I know that you are okay with that so.....!!! I have to take time out to play some games in and out of the crate (Such as "Crate Games" by Susan Garrett)



Back to housetraining. Many puppies have times when they are active and playing where they pee as often as every 20 minutes. Lucky has a bladder of steel. She easily goes 1 hr between and can make it all the way down the stairs and outside without having a quick stop along the way. She also learned how to use the doggie door ALL BY HERSELF! She does her biz in gravel or grass. Only two "accidents" so far (one of each kind) but at 8 weeks of age it isn't about the puppy having control it is about the owner taking the puppy out. We have a blank chart on the fridge door to record input and output to help keep track. (I will try to copy it and put it on my website)

Nipping and biting is part of puppyhood. They are learning about their world and learning about bite inhibition. Lucky's little shark teeth are testing the world allright! She learns how hard to bite when wrestling with other dogs -- if she clamps down too hard they tell her in doggie ways by yelping, stopping play, and perhaps giving her a short reprimand back. Human skin is even more delicate than dog fur so we also have to teach them not to bite hard when playing with us. Yelp sharply and stop play abruptly by standing up or walking away. Give them another try or substitute your hand with a toy. With repetition puppy will learn to inhibit biting. Lucky is progressing as can be expected. Many more weeks of repetition....

Obedience commands. Ugh ... I hate those words. They are signals or cues that we want them to learn as life skills. Dogs aren't meant to obey ... we must earn their willing compliance ... this isn't the time to go on and on about my views on training ;0) Puppy pushups is a fun little exercise (Sit, Down, Stand). Sit is fast becoming a default behaviour for Lucky! I love default behaviours! Whenever she wants attention she sits and looks at us! I never miss a chance to reinforce that behaviour, with a pat or a treat or playtime! She sits for her food dish and I almost see a hesitation waiting for the release word "okay"... Coming when called is so easy to teach a puppy! Lucky is no exception. Recall or come cues are all too easy to ruin though, so I am ensuring that something extra good or extra fun always follows ... and if not I would actually get her or not use the sacred recall word. Jumping up is fast extinguishing ... that's when people walk away and fun ends. Waiting at doorways is something that I feel is important to teach so we are playing around with that too. Smart puppy learning how to get the good things in life!

I worked at the vets on Thursday and brought in her stool sample in for testing. Negative for worms or eggs! Yay! Check with your vet again when you get back as apparently you want to have three successive negatives. I will bring her by the vets office again next week just to make sure vet visits are always happily anticipated! Mmmmm.... liver and friendly people!

She is eating and pooing normally. I have done some preliminary resource guarding prevention exercises by coming up to her food dish when she is eating and given her some extra yummy things so that people near her food dish are good news! These exercises should also be carried out with toys and bones. Speaking of which ... I have given her a couple of raw knuckle and marrow bones. Yum! At first she didn't know what to do with them and whined at it ... she soon figured it out though! She has eaten and drank out of a couple of different dishes in a couple of different locations. The water dish that she liked to dig in got replaced and put outside! Maybe I should buy a kiddie pool today for recreation time...

To teach her to accept handling I am in the habit of occasionally restraining her gently and holding a paw and fiddling with the toenails. Her ears are clean but I check them and pretend to clean them too. If she struggles slightly I maintain my hold and then when she is calm I set her down again and we have a little play time. I still have to do mouth and teeth handling...

Yesterday I took all three doggies to Sonja's school because they had a fun day. All the children crowding around her was like a fun party for Lucky! Then the three dogs got to zoom around the huge grassy field! Yay! To get to the school we had to walk over a concrete overpass that crossed the highway. On the way over, the children carried Lucky and on the way back over she confidently trotted back across. Then back in the van she fell fast asleep!

Riding in the van is a pleasurable experience for Lucky. She is calm and content. When she gets sleepy I put her in a small crate I have beside my drivers seat and there is no fussing there.

What else was on that checklist to expose her to in the crucial first 12 weeks of her life? Oh yeah ... household appliances, vacuum cleaner, different floor surfaces, people with glasses or hats or beards, cats, other peoples houses, check, check and double check. Have to go and visit with my friends horses today to put a checkmark on the livestock column...

And pictures .... yikes, I've been so busy having fun that I haven't taken enough pictures! Must remember to pack camera along with all the puppy gear!

Oh oh ... Lucky is awake from her nap! Gotta go! More adventures this weekend!

More reading on what experiences your puppy should have from 8 - 12 weeks of age: http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/puppys-first-month-home-8-12-weeks

First Steps Puppy Class - Session #3

The dogs and owners in this session are some of the best "partners" we have had! Usually the focus of a First Steps Puppy Class with puppies 8 - 16 weeks is to have an opportunity to have dog/dog social interaction and learn appropriate play, an opportunity to develop bite inhibition and to get a good start on socialization and handling with other people and in the class environment. The dogs in this group are off to a great start on all these things so we are working on foundation training behaviours such as attention or eye contact, response to name, zen (graduated levels of leave-it training) and impulse control exercises such as check-in and on-off switch and to release your dog before he makes his own decision when he is done being with you. We also started on puppy push-ups (sit, down, stand) and recall (come).

We've talked about the importance and the outcomes of every experience that a dog has, socialization, how dogs learn, and different ways a behaviour can be reinforced (treat, toy, praise, life rewards) and how to graduate to intermittent reinforcement. We've observed dog body language and the impacts our body language has on them, interrupted dog play with collar grabs with our own and with others' puppies.

I am impressed how many of the owners are understanding the benefits of management to prevent behaviour problems (crates, baby gates, tie-downs, etc.) Owners are also understanding that they must be an advocate for their dog and decide what situations their dogs should be prevented from being in in order to not learn undesirable behaviours inadvertently. A shy dog is not going to benefit from well meaning people coming up to it (and learning to bite to keep people away) any more than a jumpy dog is going to learn not to jump on people if he keeps getting attention for full body contact. If a dog lunges and pulls towards another dog they have just been rewarded for unruly behaviour and not paying any attention to you ... our puppies are learning that if there is something they want that they show some self control and check in with their owners first and then either something better happens or they may get a chance to be released (OK go play) and play with that dog after all -- but on the owners terms. Premack Principle!
See my friend Katharine's blog: http://happy-houndz.blogspot.com/p/premack-principle-great-for-recalls.html
and my favourite dog training mentor:
Ian Dunbar on dog-friendly dog training | Video on TED.com

Everyone seemed to understand that if a dog is worried or overstimulated that he is not in the optimal state for learning (reactive, hind brain). Cash in your chips and remove yourself and your doggie from the situation. Just get outta Dodge. Move away and increase your distance from the distraction (fearful object or exciting stimulus) until your dog is at a point that he can focus. Putting your body inbetween your dog and the stimulus (body blocking) can also help diffuse the situation. Having some favourite and heavily reinforced behaviours (tricks such as shake-a-paw or eye contact with you) can sometimes be used to get the dog to re-connect with you.



Shaping ... there were a few times when we couldn't get the full desired behaviour from a dog. (laying all the way down, turning full attention to mom) Because we were still in the process of learning we rewarded a close approximation of the response rather than having a dog give up and stop engaging in the training game with us altogether. It would also be a good idea to do a bit more training in a less stimulating environment to solidify the foundation as well.

We have a shy little Chihuahua in this group but his Mommy is doing a great job and the little guy is adjusting more every week. Mom has a plan for getting him used to his harness and leash and other new things in his world. For shy dog owners this is a great website: http://www.fearfuldogs.com/index.html



We want to have as many tools in our toolbox for training as possible so if you don't control your dogs' meals it is one less tool that you have control of. There are also other benefits to being in control over how much and when your dog eats. See this article: http://www.dragonflyllama.com/%20DOGS/Writing/TeachEat.html

Cat chasing questions came up a couple of times and I didn't give a very good response at the time. There are so many factors involved! Instinct and hardwired behaviours are very hard to stop once the dog has learned them. Once you know, you can't un-know! Dogs are most motivated by reinforcement -- meaning that if there is a chance of something good happening they are going to try every chance they can get if there is any possibility of a good outcome (reiforcement, chase, etc.) We could possibly inhibit their behaviour or distract them but just like gambling addicts, if there is even a slight possibility of winning the jackpot (lottery, chance to chase a cat, etc.) then that is the best motivation. So sadly, prevention is the best plan and teaching that alternatives are just as good ... or a long but possible re-training process. Hmmm..... I'll have to find a good website article on that... quick look but this site often has some good info: http://www.diamondsintheruff.com/catchasing.html



Thanks to all the handlers and puppies for coming to our sessions. Your puppies have a lifetime of learning -- not to scare you -- but it is largely up to you what they actually learn ... and yes, old dogs can learn new tricks so you are in for many years of training too :0) Training should be all about fun and keeping your dog interacting with you so it is all good.

And don't worry ... my dogs have some behaviours I wish they hadn't learned either ;0)

Great Crates!

Why teach your dog to be comfortable in a crate?
... this could be the start of a really loooooong list ...

The first thing that comes to mind is Puppy training. Housetraining is so much easier with a crate. For that matter even adult dogs that need housetraining learn faster if using a crate. Puppy chewing is easily prevented if you can use a crate for unsupervised times. Even older dogs sometimes have lapses in chewing under times of stress or moving. Good to have an option to fall back on. Preventing separation anxiety is oh so much easier than treating it! Teach your dog to be calm and comfortable in a crate.

If your dog is worried about guests or workers around the home they may enjoy some time in their safe, cozy spot!
Your dog doesn't learn to bark out the front window.
He can't learn to dig or jump fences and escape while you are away from home.
If you feed you dog bones and don't want icky-goo all over the floors ... feed them in the crate and then wipe out the tray.

Introduce your puppy or a dog to a crate and keep them used to using one occasionally as a "lifetime" tool. If your dog is injured one day and needs bed-rest as part of treatment then you don't have to add another stress to your dog... they are already familiar with crate-rest. Trips to the veterinarian, groomer or boarding facility will be less stressful as well. Who knows, maybe one day you will want to compete in one of the many exciting dog shows or sports and then having a dog that relaxes in his crate will help win ribbons :0)

Besides ... how about those times you can't leave your dog in a hot vehicle (or a cold truck) but could bring the dog indoors with you if he was in a crate. Or if you have to visit the in-laws but they don't want your dog underfoot ... you could set up a crate in their living room and your dog and you could still come! Nevermind, bad example ... sorry ... I can't come visit ... my dog isn't crate trained.

One of the better articles on the web. Easy to read and understand.
http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html

Nip it in the bud!

I don't know about the origins of that expression but I DO know the origins of dog behaviours! Whether is it desirable behaviour (good dog) or undesirable behaviour in our eyes (bad dog or problem dog) the behaviour happens because it was reinforced in SOME way. Reinforcement comes in many forms!

(see recent post on Dog Star Daily http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/treat-any-other-name%E2%80%A6

Little Lucky puppy for some reason has started barking as she excitedly runs down the stairs. I know that if something happens once or twice it is likely to happen again! The barking may not be entirely conscious but it is part of the excitement and can quickly become a learned behaviour. I will ensure that for the next little while that stair descents are not so exciting and stimulating and then reinforce the new behaviour using praise and edibles and... I will reinforce for calm descents!

As a separate training game I will play "turn on and off switch" or "Silly Sit" with her. I will start teaching her to "target" as well. My own dogs go to "spot" at the foot of the stairs. The more "foundation behaviours" that a dog knows the easier it is to teach new behaviours or problem solve!

See our Training Workshops and sign up to teach your dog some foundation behaviours and learn more about reinforcement. See http://pawinhand.blogspot.com/p/step-one.html

Puppy's First 48 Hours!

Lucky arrived 48 hours ago. It's been very very busy! I was going to write about the first 24 hours but now 48 hours have gone by!

Oh so cute! Soft and warm and cuddly! Sharp teeth, puppy breath and hilarious antics! Lucky is an outgoing girl and is learning about the world around her!

Her temperament appears nicely balanced. Lucky has taken the new surroundings of our home in stride. She has met many new things including a few dogs, two cats, toddlers, preschoolers, children, men and women, bicycles, wagons, and has started skateboard training....

Lucky has gone for two short car rides, explored forested trails near the river, stumbled over rocks and splashed her paws in water. Opal and Trixie taught her how to dig already too! She can now not only race up but also down the stairs. Neither noisy household appliances, trucks outside or bouncing children on the trampoline seem to fizz her. Tonight the neigbours two boys ran down the driveway at us with their hockey gear on. Wiggly happy puppy wanted to play with them. Now let me see what else is on that checklist of things to expose a puppy to before it is 12 weeks of age and the "critcal socialization period" comes to an end...?!

Lucky is jumping up on us less already. She can often be found sitting and looking at us as if saying "please".... that's what gets attention from us xo!

Nipping and Biting will of course continue over the next few weeks. We do want to help her learn bite inhibition. Our human skin is delicate ... "Yelp! Then try again and be a bit more gentle or bite this toy instead." Repeat, repeat, repeat.

Chew this and not that. Supervision and management. Furniture and carpets discouraged and Kong Toys and chew sticks encouraged. Repeat repeat repeat.

Housetraining has been great so far ... only one pee in the house. Everything else has made it outside on the grass or gravel. Realistic expectations. Praise and reinforcement! Good habits starting! Sure, she's a "good" puppy but I take the credit for this one :0)

Crate training has had some successes and some challenges.
The first night was unsettling even with her in a crate right beside my bed. My arm hanging over the edge of my bed and hand inside the crate. She still fussed every hour or so. Yes, I admit ... by the time 5am came around I was not ready to wake up so she came into bed with me. (I can always erase this post right?) Two hours of sleep! The second night Lucky was only up once for a pee break and then right back to sleep. Maybe it was that long play session in the yard that evening... Or the warm beanbag. Yay!
Daytime is the next crate challenge. Lucky is only content in the crate if she is very tired.... when she falls asleep on a cushion or in my arms I move her to the crate. If she rouses then usually a gentle stroking will settle her again. When she starts to wake I let her out before she gets restless. We are already working on impulse control and not pushing past the crate door ... more on that later! When I had to leave her alone for a couple of hours I left her in an "error-less environment" -- a gated off puppy proofed area with an open crate inside, chew toys, water and a different surface (newspaper, pads) in the corner. I will admit that she made unhappy vocalizations but by the time I came back she was sleeping in the open crate. In the meantime I am trying to feed her in the crate, play games in and out of the crate, and making crate times good times.

Wish me luck for another good Lucky night :0)
Sweet puppy dreams!
Auntie Maren

Before and After you get your Puppy books by Dr. Ian Dunbar are the greatest! They are available for free download from:
http://www.dogstardaily.com/free-downloads